Think 'gangster' this winter

I’m sorry In advance, as after reading this article those purses may be a little lighter ladies.

If you haven’t already heard of Alan Moore and his stunning Ten30 Brand, (p.s. where have you been?!) then listen up! This Glasgow born designer is one to know and with his new collection just released last week Mr Moore was in need of some serious fashion questioning.

With an honours degree in Textiles from Glasgow School of Art, a background working with Laura Lees and a growing intuitive self-start brand, Alan Moore is definitely a Fashion Smartie. SO it’s understandable I was desperate to get to know him a little better and understand the man behind the brand and his savvy Glasgow ethos.

So let me introduce to you all….drumroll please…. Alan Moore, Ten30 and their newest collection:

Alan Moore

You must be over the moon with the success of the show last Saturday at Glasgow’s Malmaison, please tell all about the new collection:

I was thrilled with the turn-out to see my strongest collection to date, and excited to see media and Textiles Scotland showing support for what we, as part of a new generation of Scottish designers, are working on with Harris Tweed.

This collaboration with Garynahine Harris tweed sees a subtle Scottish theme running in the collection but it’s main inspiration has been the female characters in old gangster movies like Casino, Goodfellas and Scarface.

Michelle Pfeiffer in Scarface

I wanted to take the stereotypical aesthetics of these trashy, powerful, money hungry woman and explore it a bit deeper. I found that there is an underlying vulnerability and insecurity that is usually missed, i wanted to incorporate both of these traits into the collection.

So it’s a bit more mature and refined than anything else I've done in the past. I think this is the strongest and most coherent collection to date, and I'm very pleased with it. It’s very simple and classic, elegant silk shirts with subtle detailing, 60's inspired Harris Tweed jackets and lots of luxurious faux fur and soft black leather.

Ten30 A/W 11

Ten 30 A/W 11

Alan with his models

How have the other collections you’ve created differed, what have they been inspired from?

There is always a lot of thought goes into each collection, every detail of the concept is as important as the aesthetic of the garments.

For the last collection we invented a female muse and wrote short stories about her and posted them on "her" blog. We always created a facebook profile for her and managed to gain more than 200 friends. I am fascinated by social media and the idea of dual personalities and things like that so this collection was a chance to explore all these ideas. 

I am usually inspired by old films, i love dystopic sci-fi fantasy films and have previously made collections referencing Snake Plissken and Escape From New York, as well as TRON.

I think Glasgow and Scotland have a huge reputation for producing innovative textiles, rather than fashion, and this always plays a big part in my work. I like to experiment and develop prints, embroideries and wovens, making that the focus, rather than any avaunt gard pattern cutting. Ten30 is always very wearable, and I want to keep it like that.

So you think Glasgow plays quite a big role in your creations and fashion consciousness?

Since I am from Glasgow and having studied at Glasgow School of Art, I think there is an inherent design ethos or belief in Glasgow that is shared by the creative community, and that is all i know. I was fortunate enough to have an interview for the masters course at Central Saint Martains, where I was told my work was "typically Glasgow" i don't know if that's good or bad, but i like it. (*Good)

There is such a varied scene in Glasgow. Although it is a small city, the city is divided up into so many different looks and life-styles almost sub-sub-cultures if that makes sense? The diversity and availability of clothing in Glasgow makes is so easy for anyone to dress how they want to, and not be forced to be dripping in Topshop. I think the reputation Glasgow has for music, art and culture all tie in together and make the city what it is.

I don’t think there is a bitchiness or fashion hierarchy in Glasgow. I find that people are very complimentary and non-judgemental on other people style, even if it’s not to their taste, there is usually a positive to be said. I like that attitude. (*We like yours)

With the launch of the new collection any other plans in the pipeline?

I like to plan no further than a year in advance, and if I stick to the plan and all goes well, I plan for the next year and make sure the label is improving and I am improving as both a designer and a businessman. The plan so far is  to work on a project in December, another project in February a couple of collaborations and working on Spring/Summer 12 to be launched in March next year. So there’s a lot to get on with.

Any celebrities you would like to see wearing your brand?

I'm not really one for celebrity spotting and not a fan of doing bespoke designs, but I’d love to see someone like Eva Green in some ten30. She’s incredibly beautiful, sultry and has an understated sex appeal which i love; I also imagine she would be a pretty cool person to hang out with.(*We wanna hang out with you and try on your new collection? Please?)

Beautiful Eva Green

Talented, stylish, charming and, yes ladies, he’s single – meet Cusick Jnr.

“My names Steven Cusick, but my stage name is Cusick Jnr, I am 23 years old and I’m a singer/writer, up and coming, trying to make it.”

He has a raspy, soulful sound, a passion for his music and he’s a style chameleon; It was only right I got to know what’s next for this Glasgow born boy who see’s the world beyond and believes he can storm it with his new sound. Currently recording new material and planning to tour worldwide after the new year Steven’s future looks like one we should all keep an eye on.

I think I’ll let him do the talking…

So, how did Cusick Jnr come to be born?

I’ve always sang, I'm not going to be one of those stereotypical people who you see on the X Factor who says, oh yeah I’ve sang since I was 2 and all that, but I used to do the odd karaoke on holiday. Then one time at school, when I had seen lots of talent comps, which I’d never done cos I’d always played football, I thought ‘you know what why don’t I just go up and do it’ and I did. Then I started doing it for a bit of fun, little gigs here and there but with no focus or trying to be a musician.

I actually ended up going to uni and studied business with Spanish. Then two and half years through it when I was in Spain I decided it wasn’t for me; I just wanted to be a musician. So I dropped out, moved home and concentrated on my solo career.

Tell us about your Solo Career so far?

My 1^st proper gig was in November 2010 at Karbon. There was around 240 people there, was packed out, just performed all the tracks I had been writing with producers ‘When in Rome.’ I had Invited a few industry folk and publishers but this was really just the first step to try and move it forward and from that I gigged again in the Classic Grand one month later and from that managed to secure myself to perform at the Drake after party at the beginning of this year.

I went to London at the beginning of March and I just so happened to go to an event called ‘I Luv Live.’ I just went down with one of my friends who’s a stylist and she was styling a band there, I was only supposed to be helping her out but they had an open mic competition at the end of it and they had ten places, you just signed up and got 60 seconds. It was like something out of an 8 Mile scene, full of rappers, intense crowd and had no idea what I was going to do - so I thought ‘yeah just go for it’ and went up and performed ‘Ordinary People’ by John Legend. Everyone else was rapping and I thought you know what I’m going to go up and sing so I just sang, done my thing, 60 seconds. The crowd decided who won and It ended up being me, which was cool, and I got invited back – the only white boy in the place, and they all loved me.

Famous Friends - J Cole and Cusick Jnr
(Jealous)

You’ve got a good style (*guys take note) – how important do you think your image is?

My image is my own style. I’ve not really changed it much. It’s very important for the music business but I think the talent is the first and foremost, you’ve gotta have the voice and you’ve got to have something that makes you stand out – not going to say the x-factor cos I'm trying to stay away from that, but you need to have that something that is going to make you stand out from people already in the industry and already in the charts.

I have my own style, I’m always changing it whether it be with my hairstyle or with my dress sense but I always try and keep it fresh, always try and keep it real. (Steven you’re Fashion Smartie!)

                                 

How important do you think Glasgow has been to your music and style?

What I love most about Glasgow is the weather, it’s amazing, its so warm (*as he sits wrapped up in a scarf and a woolly jumper.)

No, Glasgow… I love it, it’s my hometown. It’s great city, got lots of style and culture here. Some of the styles and scenes are really inspirational. And even though I don’t really drink I love going out and love a good party. I like going down to different nights and seeing what they’ve got to offer and getting inspired by it, cause obviously I'm a writer so you can take ideas from different nights like that and socialising with different folk.

It’s always about creating something different, something different from everyone else, I don’t want to go in to town or a night club and be wearing the same shirt as ten other guys. There was one night I was out and I had on this denim waistcoat from a jacket I had and had cut the sleeves off and it looked cool, I didn’t really care if anyone else didn’t but I thought I carried it off well. I don’t know if this guy was jealous of my coolness but he was slagging me off about it and I just started laughing and asked him if he’d got his top from Topshop cause there was about ten of his mates wearing the same checked shirt.

So I don’t want to be the same as everyone else, I want to be different.

Are we going to see you on the X Factor at any point?

Maybe if I’d tried every other way then it would be something to try. But you’ve seen so many good singers on that show and they still don’t get put through. I know people personally who went to the auditions and didn’t even make it past the first stage before you even see judges or get a TV appearance.

I know it’s about entertainment but people take advantage of laughing at people and taking the piss at their expense – what’s that guy, he doesn’t even look human, Johnny? He’s got no talent and its a shame for him cause he’s doing it cause its his dream but that’s nowhere near talent.

I mean if you compare it to the American X Factor that’s talent. If it was the same structure and as respected over here as it is over there then I think people would be really interested in doing it.

But I get it all the time from people in Glasgow, why don’t you just go on the x-factor? People just expect you to make it over night here. I only started just over a year ago properly on my solo project and making my own sound.

I always put it back to Jools Holland – the Jools Holland show is my favourite show on TV when you see real artists and musicians from all over the world playing amazing music. Now That’s something I would love to perform on, and I know I will, but when I see something like that, that’s what I call music. Everyone just wants to sit and watch X Factor cause they know its going to be bad rather than respect it.

But, Never say never…

I don’t want to sound sceptical, I’m not, but do you have a back up plan?

I’d probably be a porn star.

Seriously though – there isn’t one, I'm going to make it. There are no qualms about it.

working hard in the studio

Are there any other musicians that really inspire you?

If there was just one person it would be Jamiroquai. Jay Kay for me, he is the man, in terms of funk and the way he puts on a show. Even his private life, he has all the fame and fortune but he’s very low key, he’s not flashing it all in your face. His style is something I would like to try and incorporate, especially when it comes to live sets as he has a cool groove when it comes to that. I think that’s all down to his live band; they’re amazing. They’ve been together since the start, they’ve never left each other, so they’re sound is amazing. 

Who do you think is the ultimate male style icon?

David Beckham is the man. Obviously he’s not in music but he was my football hero and outside of that he’s a cool guy. He’s got that style and that look that just makes you go, ‘yeah he’s a cool guy.’ Style wise, he’s got so many different looks. I like to do that as well, keep trying different looks, I don’t like to stay the same – change is good.

Agreed! DB is soooooo scrummy!

Okay we’re excited, what’s the plans now, do tell!?

I’ve got four new tracks so I’m just going to continue to make more and write more material, try and work with as many producers as I can that I feel I'm going to benefit from. Plan would be to then continue to work on the live set so I can have six new banging tracks and do a cover I feel I can put my own touch on, then do a live set with a live band behind it and start showcasing in London. I want to try be showcasing by February. This is also when the labels will start looking and be seeing who they can get sign up for summer or next year.

There’s another event I’m hoping to go to called South by SouthWest in Texas which is one of the biggest music showcases in the world. All the big promoters and booking agents go to this event to see who they can book up and see who’s really got talent. A lot of blogger's, like yourself go to see what there is to write about so there’s a lot of coverage so I’ll hopefully try and get something out of that.

There’s a charity gig I'm doing too, and there a huge artist playing at it, I’m not allowed to say who it is, she’s Scottish and she used to be in a band, and I'm supposed to be performing in the same bill as her so that would be amazing if I get to do that.

I want to focus on getting myself a record deal sorted but I don’t want to rush it.

You’re going to see a lot more of me...

There is a young women. Who makes fabulous shoes…

It’s an inherent fact that women are suckers for beautiful shoes and I have bad news… the rising Glasgow designer I caught up with this week isn’t going to make it any easier for us to resist the urge to spoil our feet to some luxurious leather. Thank god it’s only 62 sleeps until Christmas and maybe Santa can ‘foot’ the bill – there’s definitely more than one pair I want. With her designs spreading to a number of stockists and plans to open up a collaborative design shop, there’s a name everyone should get to know…

Emily Lamb, 24, shoe designer, extremely talented.

Emily With some of her S/S 11 collection

Bio:

Glasgow footwear designer Emily Lamb, like nearly all women, has always adored shoes but she always knew that not only did she want to just wear them but to make them. She found out when she was 15 that you could study the art of shoe design thus she embarked on a path that lead her to the creation of her very own label.

At 17 she went to study a portfolio course at London College of Fashion before being accepted to the BA hons shoe design and making course at Cordwainers. After graduating in 2008 she went on to work for custom made wedding shoe designer, Emmy. Undoubtedly gaining invaluable experience Emily’s ambitions brought her back to Glasgow and a just more than a year ago Emily Lamb Shoes was born.

Nominated for best new Scottish artist or designer category at the Scottish Variety Awards and accessory designer of the year at the Scottish Fashion Awards this year, Emily is fast becoming an industry favourite. Big names have already recognized the quality and design of her shoes; Dame Shirley Bassey wore a pair of Miss Lamb’s custom-made Swarovski encrusted silver sling backs to the Scottish Fashion awards earlier this year.

Emily has just released her third collection for S/S 2012 and is currently selling her shoes at Lace Boutique in Ayr and is hoping to secure a few more stockists for her latest designs in the next few weeks.

Sneak peak of Emily's S/S 12 Designs

She is also working with her fellow designers of the Design Collective Scotland to get their new and exclusive shop up and running before Christmas… how convenient for us. The studio come shop will be set up on Glasgow’s Dumbarton Road and will see a collaboration from four of the design worlds names to watch.

Emily’s shoes are handmade in the UK, with each pair adopting a unique design and exquisite detail to create beautiful and timeless designs. Even the boxes these gorgeous shoes come in are 100% recyclable. Emily Lamb, you’re a Fashion Smartie.

Here’s a taste of what Emily had to say about her luxury shoes, new adventures and Glasgow fashion:

Why shoes?

I spent so long at high school doodling them that eventually someone told me you could study it, so I thought, 'I'm going to do that.’

The more I find out about shoes the more interested I am.

I love everything about them: the construction and all the materials you can use. I look at a pair of shoes and they can be quite simple and really beautiful but you can't see all that's gone into the making of them.

'Collette' from Emily's first collection 
which was inspired by Paris 1920's design 
and Art Deco - LOVE.

Where do you get your inspiration?

I tend when designing a collection not to look at different trends or what’s been done before. My collection for autumn/winter was actually inspired by a surrealist artist from Cuba, he’s been one of my favourite artists for years, Wifredo Lam. His stuff is so cool and that’s what inspired my collection.  

Emily Lamb A/W 11 'Carmen'

Emily Lamb A/W 11 'Alegria'

Designing and selling shoes in Glasgow you definitely keep the women around you in mind. Women in Glasgow tend to dress very well and love high fashion pieces and I suppose that’s something I always have in mind when I’m putting a collection together.

We can’t wait for the design collective shop, tell us more:

The Design Collective was started by Di Gilpin – the idea came to her when she was over in New York at Dressed to Kilt with Iona Crawford then the two of them decided to start the collective up. Iona and I have been friends for a while so she suggested it to me and I knew Marc Ross so we all just got together and went for it. We all just showed at London Fashion Week in September just there. We had a great response, we had a launch party in Glasgow before we went down and then a launch in London during it, which were both great.

It will be great to have an outlet and somewhere central in Glasgow that people can come to and actually try on the shoes.

And we don’t have the date confirmed yet but it will be before Christmas and we’ll be having a launch party.

3/4 of the Scottish Design Collective, 
Iona Crawford, Marc Ross 
and Emily Lamb

Why Glasgow?

It’s a city that’s definitely up and coming; I think it’s probably the second biggest city in the UK for fashion. I know other people think about Manchester etc... outside of London but I honestly do think Glasgow is probably the next big city for stylists and their interest in high fashion.

I think the fact there are so many famous artists and designers from in and around Glasgow that it really lends itself to people being so interested in design and fashion itself. On top of that there’s Glasgow school of art and the fashion course at Cardonald; I think having these courses within the city also adds to what people chose to wear and their fashion awareness.

What designers do you most admire?

As far as designers go I love Preen, just how elegant their clothes are and I just think the couple that design for Preen are fantastic. But I think as far as business goes it would have to be Tamara Mellon for Jimmy Choo.

Preen's A/W 11 Collection

What’s the future plan for Emily Lamb?

 Over the next two years I want to increase my stockists worldwide so people become more aware of my brand. Then after that maybe five years down the line I would love to have my own boutique, who knows where that might be but I think maybe London or New York, a major fashion capital, but with the way things are going maybe it will be Glasgow.

I would also like to collaborate with a few different designers so we’ll see…

Your dream collaboration for a collection?

I would love to do shoes with Karl Lagerfeld. He mostly sticks to a monotone look, which is definitely my sort of style, I love simplicity and timeless pieces so I think we could definitely do something together.

I really hope you do…

Stay tuned for the launch of the Scottish Design Collective's Premier store.

Glasgow. Fashion Capital of.... my heart.

Okay, so maybe it doesn’t spring to mind like Paris, New York or Milan but Glasgow for me is where my fashion fascination began. Many will be ignorantly unaware of the perils Glasgow has to offer those as absorbed with clothing compositions and style statements as I. I think its uniqueness stems directly from what the traditional ship building, working class city is – smoggy, poor and diverse. Maybe I’m not initially painting the best picture but I know you’ll learn to love, as I do, what my city has to offer those willing to accept it’s more unconventional charm.

Its quirkiness has ultimately been the result of the diversity the city holds. Glasgow’s more industrial and rock n roll background has lended to its many styles. Undoubtedly there is a grungy feel to many of the looks; indeed many roamers of the city’s west end look like they’ve been chewed up and spat out by Pete Docherty himself.

"Pete Doherty Inspired" Glasgow Style

Whilst its football fuelled hereditary character has spurred the birth of Z-List Wags who binge on the city’s designers and offer a whole other element to the fashion conundrum.

Cheryl has been an inspiration to a generation of Glasgow WAG's

It would be a travesty if a city of two and a half million people couldn’t offer a contribution to the fashion world and thus I am taking it as my job to prove that Glasgow can make it as a strong contender in the style stakes. There is good reason why Glasgow has been first choice for premier Scottish branches of some of the high streets most influential stores (Urban Outfitters, American apparel)

It's addition to Glasgow has been warmly welcomed for its street style. 

Not only high street but high end, Glasgow has proved it’s ability to attract some of the most famous labels; high end fashion retailer Cruise was started in Glasgow and found its popularity here; we might take the bus to get there but by hell we’ll have the newest Herve Leger and Louboutins to compliment for our Saturday night out. (Getting the bus is economically friendly chic now, no?)

I Jest… but Glasgow really does have something to offer from inspiring vintage shops, hidden designers, high-end brands and inspired urban street style. I am officially making it my job to open your eyes to the abundance of creativity surrounding you and why Glasgow owns my fashion heart.